Croatian hillsides cloaked in forestry run right to the waters edge. Water-taxis take the scenic route from town to town. Summer concerts draw the crowds to ancient amphitheatres. Along a thousand miles of shore, a thousand tiny islands are sprinkled in a sapphire sea. In such a setting, relaxation is carried on the breeze.

Introduction
Washed by the clean, clear waters of the Adriatic, Croatia has more than a little of the southern Mediterranean character. Like Italy and Spain, the vast majority of Croatias population is Roman Catholic, regular church-goers are the norm, and family values form the fabric of the nation. As in most of the Mediterranean countries, an afternoon siesta is observed and balmy evenings begin with the traditional primping and preening of the stroll on the seafront or city square. Like many Med-hemming countries, Croatia celebrates a host of national days and religious feasts.

Tradition, in this very new country, has evolved through a very long history. An independent democracy since 1991, its national treasures include Roman relics, medieval walled cities, Byzantine basilicas, 13th century ramparts and 16th century palaces. Cobbled streets in its character-filled towns have chimed to the footsteps of countless generations, and bell towers in Baroque churches have rung the changes of a chequered past. So the keen or curious historian could sightsee for weeks and still leave plenty for next time, were it not for the fact that contemporary Croatia tempts you to a feast of alternative attractions.

On a coastline where sandy bays are few and far between, there is nothing to cloud the clarity of the surrounding seas, making them perfect for swimming, snorkelling and diving. With rocky beaches, pebble coves and man-made bathing platforms, it is easy to make the most of the water, and for those who would rather be on it than in it, there are island hopping ferries to many of the offshore islets and outcrops. Little fishing ports are liberally scattered along the shoreline, ensuring a fresh supply of seafood for delicious Croatian local dishes, while, away from the coast, glorious rural scenery lines your route to timeless tiny villages. In the hills of Croatia, there is an almost tangible awareness that you are well off the beaten track of tourism. It is a rare and refreshing feeling.

Location
With the Danube forming much of its northern boundary, and the Adriatic marking its western reaches, the country shares its borders with Slovenia and Hungary to the north, and Bosnia & Herzegovina occupying the centre of Croatia’s crescent shape. Italy’s north-eastern coastline faces Croatia from the west.

Beaches
Sandy beaches are rare here, the majority of them are fine shingle including the well known Zlatni Rat (Golden Horn) on the island of Brac – which points a 300metre finger into the Adriatic. The island has a smaller sandy cove near Postira, along with several pebble bays. A gently shelving sandy beach attracts families to little Lopud island, offshore from Dubrovnik, while this region’s ‘riviera’ is a series of picturesque pebble bays and water’s edge promenades. White pebble beaches form a gleaming ribbon along the Makarska Riviera, and the ragged and indented coastline of the Istrian Riviera creates a medley of sheltered coves and rocky outcrops. Korcula Island is hemmed by 195 beaches and coves that make excellent snorkelling grounds.

Food & Wine
Served with fresh vegetables and cooked in olive oil, coastal Croatia’s cuisine is based on a hugely varied range of seafood dishes. It’s said that 400 species of fish thrive in local waters. Some which appear on mouthwatering menus could include bream, cuttlefish and fresh sardines, swordfish-style dentex and orhan, prstaci shellfish, langoustines like mini lobsters, and squid – often deliciously prepared with rice in its own blue-black ink. Try the brodet - a mixed fish stew with rice. The Italian influence on Croatia extends to its inexpensive specialities with pizza and pasta dishes in many eateries. Local meat is usually produced from free-roaming outdoor reared animals. Specialities include prsut – a Parma ham equivalent, served as a starter with local cheese in oil, cevapcici – little rissoles of beef, onion and herbs, and raznjici – pork kebabs. Manistra od bobica – a dish from the inland area, is a vegetarian soup of beans and maize. Local wines include some from organic vineyards. Some of the best bottled wines are (Reds) Dingac, Postup and Kastellet, (Whites) Posip and Grk from Korcula island and Bogdanusa and Zlatan Otuk from Hvar. If you opt for carafe wines you’ll find the reds are more reliably good than the whites.

Activities
With such famous sons as Goran Ivanisevic and Mario Ancic, it’s no surprise that Croatia is keen on its tennis. Wherever you are, there’s sure to be a court nearby – along with a basketball court and / or football pitch, two other favourite sports. Sailing is a super way to enjoy the coastal seas, and boats and berths can be hired in many little ports. Waterskiing, windsurfing, and fun rides on ‘donuts’ and banana boats are widely available in high season months, and Croatia has several recognised dive schools for scuba enthusiasts.

Shopping
Lace, leather goods, embroidered table linens, wood-carvings and colourful ceramics all contribute to the variety of locally hand-crafted giftware. For a personal souvenir, look in little shops and galleries at the work of local artists. You may find a watercolour of a view that will rekindle memories. All the towns and even small villages have somewhere selling local crafts, from market stalls to curiosity shops. Brilliant browsing grounds include Dubrovnik’s medieval streets and marble-paved squares, Cavtat’s old town, the atmospheric centre of ancient Rovinj, and among the cobbled streets of Porec.

Entertainment
As you would expect, the variety of bars and nightclubs is more extensive in direct proportion to the size of the town and, though some stay open late into the night, it’s fair to say that Croatia’s nightlife is generally low key. Many of the larger hotels offer evening entertainment and the summer calendar includes a host of village festivals, carnivals and concerts – covering everything from folklore to classical and jazz. Atmospheric venues include churches and palaces, and al fresco on Dubrovnik’s ramparts and in Pula’s Roman arena.

Getting Around
A superbly scenic coastal road runs from Dubrovnik north to Zadar, turning inland before returning to the sea to encircle the Istrian peninsula. A hire car would be a real bonus for discovery here, giving you the freedom to stop for photo’s from fantastic perspectives or sit and watch the world go by from a harbourside café. Good regular ferry services link the mainland ports to their outlying islands.